'56 Lincoln Premiere, '63 Studebaker GT Hawk, '63 Thunderbird, '67 Thunderbird, suicide 4-door, '73 Opel GT, '91 Lincoln Mark VII, '91 Taurus SHO, '95 Taurus SHO, '02 Thunderbird, '05 Hemi MagnumBikes
'68 Motoguzzi V7, '69 BMW R60US, '73 BMW R75/5 Toaster tank, '83 BMW R80 Custom, '97 BMW F650, '98 Triumph Trophy 1200, '93 BMW R1100RS
Depending on the model, they are located on different areas of the frame, engine, transmission, rear end and body. From around the mid 1950's, most vehicle VINs and part number locations would be listed in the service manuals, body and parts illustration for each particular vehicle. These manuals are available from many sources.
Most generally, the VIN number has a sequence of the last 4-5 digits or more, depending on the marque, that are common on other VIN marked body parts. The engine, transmission, etc. should have the same numbers if it is correct. If you are wanting a totally correct original car, this would be important from a purist and value standpoint.
Some vehicles do not have engine/drivetrains that match the VIN, most notably is Ford Motor Company. They simply have a cast iron/aluminum casted number or date that corresponds with the car/truck build date etc. They originally did this for quality control to know who made mistakes and during what shift the parts were made.
The most accurate way to determine value is to have your vehicle appraised by a professional appraiser. If that isn't in your budget, here are some other thoughts and suggestions.
Classic car values are far different from late-model car values. When you figure the value of that 1993 Mustang, the most important things are probably its mileage, the options it includes, and whether or not it's been wrecked. Then you check the 'blue book' for tax value, wholesale value, retail, etc.
For an older car which has reached 'collectible status', the condition of the car is probably more important than its history or what options it has on it. All of that still plays in, but to someone who is considering the cost of restoring a classic car, its current condition dictates how much work that restoration will entail and, therefore, the current value of the car.
For online references, you may want to check out these sites:
We've tried every way possible to make resources available to persons looking for a certain part or hard-to-find parts for a classic car. To find the part(s) you're looking for, please try these steps:
1. Check out our list of TV Advertisers. Supporting them will help keep My Classic Car around!
2. Check out the My Classic Car Forum. It's a great way to ask other MCC Online members.
Yes. If you already have an account for the forum you can use your forum username/password to log into the MCC Drive In. Likewise if you signup for an account in the MCC Drive In, you will be able to use that username/password for the forum.
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Absolutely! My Classic Car Season DVD's can be ordered through our online store or by calling 812-425-4454.
Individual episodes can be purchased as Downloads through our online store.
Yes! Feel free to visit our online store to see everything that is available.
Check out the MCC Production Schedule to see which events My Classic Car will be attending.
If you know of an event you'd like us to consider covering, send us an invitation. This e-mail form has fields for all the information we need to make an initial determination.
We do get a lot of invitations, but we consider every one we receive. And as it turns out, most of the events you see featured on our TV show are ones we learned of through viewer submissions or invitations.
You can also mail flyers, photos, DVD's, CD's, etc. to us at:
My Classic Car
8401 N. Kentucky Ave., Suite M.
Evansville IN 47725
We will keep your information on file for future reference even if we are unable to attend your event this year.
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For advertising information, please contact:Sheila Perkins