Trophy Hunting - Detailing Your Classic

Getting started
Many people take their car to a steam cleaner, or blast their chassis with a pressure gun at a do-it-yourself car wash. Such devices will remove a lot of muck quickly, but will also blow dirty water into all kinds of places it shouldn't be, such as the ignition system, or crevices in the body work, or even onto upholstery panels and paint. It's safer to clean things by hand. It's hard work, but the results are better, and you don't run the risk of damaging irreplaceable parts.

Grab your scrapers, wire brush and solvent and roll under the car. Caked on grime can be removed with the sharpened scraper. Soften stubborn, hard-to-get, greasy dirt with the squirt can and solvent, let it soak in for a few minutes, then scrub it with a wire brush.

Next, mix a strong solution of dishwasher detergent and water in the bucket, (T.S.P. works well too) then scrub as much of the chassis as you can with a stiff bristle brush.

Especially filthy areas can benefit by slopping on plenty of solution, then for added punch, shaking some powdered laundry detergent into it. Let the stuff set for a few minutes so the chemicals in the soap will have time to do their job, then scrub the area again. Rinse thoroughly afterwards, and don't get any of the wash solution on your skin. It's surprisingly caustic.

Prep it
Brush off any loose rust with a wire brush, then get things as clean as possible with your electric drill and a wire brush disk. Use a sanding pad on broad, flat areas. On many cars it will not be possible to get at a few areas up in the suspension, but make every effort to get as clean and as grease and rust free as possible.

Caked-on grunge can be scraped off with a sharp putty knife.	Using a wire wheel and drill to clean your car's chassis is safer than sand blasting.

Paint it
Those of us ambitious enough to do frame off restorations on cars that will be trailered to and from shows, can bead blast chassis components to perfect cleanliness, then paint them with Dupont Imron. But most home restorers who like to use their cars don't want to go to that extreme. Rustoleum or Eastwood's chassis black is the best alternative. They have the correct semi-gloss appearance like the paint most manufactures used originally, and Rustoleum does not require a completely rust free surface to adhere properly.

Begin the task by covering tires and other items that could be affected by overspray with plastic tarps or newspaper. Shoot your undercarriage using aerosol cans or a compressor and touch-up gun. Use pieces of cardboard as shields where necessary. Shoot on a couple of coats of rusty metal primer, let it dry for a day or two, then shoot on the top coats.

Some parts of the running gear and suspension will have to be painted colors other than black. Shock absorbers came in a lot of different colors at different times in automotive history. Try to match the original color for yours. Also, transmissions were often painted the same color as the engine. Use the correct color of engine enamel, or Eastwood's cast iron paint to give yours that factory fresh look.

Engine room rescue
To compete at shows, your engine compartment must be more than clean; it must look showroom new. Not only must things be painted the correct colors, but ignition wires, hoses, clamps and fan belts must be correct and new looking. Engine accessories must be clean and freshly painted. These are things you would do as a matter of course if you are doing a complete restoration, but they can also be done with the engine in the car if you're detailing for competition.

Cleaning an engine is much like doing the undercarriage except you get to stand up. Use the same tools and techniques as you did with the chassis. But before you get started, there is some disassembly work to be done.

Take off the Accessories
Remove all of the engine accessories so you can clean and paint them, and so you can detail the block. Attach clothes pins to the ignition wires, numbered according to the cylinders they go to, then remove the distributor. Disconnect the battery at it's terminals, then use more clothes pins or tape to tag wires that go to the starter and generator. Now remove these items, along with any pumps carburetors, air filters, fans and pulleys or other items that will get in the way of painting the block. Wrap the wire harness with plastic trash bags and masking tape to keep it dry and free of paint overspray. Finally, loosen exhaust manifolds and pull them away from the engine.

Scrub it
Duct tape over any holes in the block to seal them from moisture, and then scrub the engine clean of dirt and grease. Use the detergent solution and a scrub brush, as well as the solvent can if necessary. Finally, wash the engine down with a good degreaser such as Eastwood's PRE.

Paint it
Scuff any painted areas with #360 grit sandpaper, and use a metal-prep etching solution or naval jelly to etch any bare metal areas. Now mist on a very light tack coat of the engine enamel, let it get sticky, then shoot on two or three finish coats. Let each coat dry before applying the next. In case you're wondering, no primer is used with most engine paint. Engine enamels, high temperature coatings for manifolds, and specialty paints are available from The Eastwood Company. Order one of their catalogs so you can see the selection.

Coat the manifolds
Use only high temperature coatings that will take 1000 degrees Fahrenheit without burning off. Before shooting them, clean them to bright metal with a hand drill and wire wheel. Use new gaskets when you re-attach your manifolds to the block.

Clean and paint the accessories
Scour the fan, pulleys, radiator tanks, generator or alternator, starter, distributor and pumps of dirt and rust, then wipe them down with PRE and scuff them with sandpaper. Shoot the with Eastwood's Under Hood Black, or Rustoleum. Many restoration shops use Rustoleum for the chassis, as well as engine accessories, because it holds up well, is easy to apply, and it has the correct semi-gloss sheen.

Put it back together
Clean and paint, as necessary, all nuts and bolts that hold your engine together, then reinstall all of the accessories. Replace any incorrect or worn hoses, hose clamps, belts or ignition wires with new ones. Use new gaskets where required. Finally, apply new decals where they're supposed to go. (They are usually available from the club for your marque). Now stand back and allow at least half an hour to admire your work.

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