1964 1/2 - 1966 Ford Mustang 6-Cylinder
Provided by Hemmings

When it comes to the nation's most successful selling ponycar of the 1960s and '70s, one might wonder why we chose to highlight the base six-cylinder model. After all, it isn't the most collectible Mustang of the lot. It lacks the panache and attention that its small- and big-block V-8 stablemates garner and doesn't command the high dollar resale figures associated with versions like the 289 high-performance K-Code powered and GT-optioned Mustangs of the same era. For all that the early six-cylinder-powered classic Mustang lacks in collectibility, it makes up for in other ways. Affordability is one example. The inline Six's rock solid reliability is another positive trait. What should one look for when considering a purchase? Let's take a look at what you can expect to find on the market.

The Good.

Availability. There are plenty of ready-to-restore and restored inline-six-powered Mustangs on the used car market and in the salvage yards. Typically, a boneyard V-8 Mustang will be missing much of its front suspension system, cannibalized to retrofit a six-cylinder example. Very few, if any, enthusiasts went to the wrecking yards in search of parts to change a V-8 to a six cylinder. The 200-cu.-inline six has a well-deserved reputation as being able to survive anything just short of a nuclear explosion. Those who purchased the base Six Mustangs new weren't your younger, rev-it-to-the-max gearheads. No, they were enthusiasts seeking an economical and sporty car. More importantly, the six wasn't as easy to hop-up because of its one-piece cylinder head/intake manifold design, so if the owner wanted more power, the engine usually came right out, usually (but not always) followed by its lighter rated suspension components. Many salvage yards still have decent stockpiles of these engines. When it comes to replacing sheet metal, interiors, glass, lighting and other component systems, a multitude of aftermarket companies offer New Old Stock, reproduction, and refurbished used parts. One can very nearly build an entire Mustang from what's offered on the market. Information about these cars likewise is plentiful, with a host of magazines and books dedicated solely to the Mustang. Nothing is better than the person-to-person information exchange though, and to that end the Mustang Club of America is the largest of its kind dedicated to Ford's ponycar with over 110 regional clubs.

Affordability. You can put yourself in an excellent restored six-cylinder Mustang usually for less than $10,000, with restorable project cars ranging from sub-$1,000 to $5,000 depending upon condition. Operating costs are less, with the stock one-barrel Autolite carburetor burning far less fuel than the four-barrel carburetors typically installed atop the V-8s.

Uniqueness. You'd be surprised at how much more attention your cleanly restored six-cylinder Mustang gets at shows and cruise-ins. Onlookers will spend far more time reminiscing with you about the one they had just like it than they will with the more common 289 and 302 V-8 versions parked around you.

And The Bad.

The challenges of purchasing and/or restoring a six-cylinder Mustang depend upon your desired goals. If you're seeking one for weekend cruising and aren't concerned about an absolutely period correct restoration, you have few worries when it comes to parts replacement. For the most part, the restoration aftermarket has catered to the more collectible V-8 models and many of the smaller items needed to restore a Six to factory-correct status are unavailable in NOS or reproduction form. You'll need to refurbish used components. The Six was lighter in weight and subsequently used lighter-rated suspension and steering components. Because of this, rear springs typically wore out and exhibited sagging far more quickly than the heavy-duty components found with the V-8s.

Rust is the enemy of all cars, and the Mustangs are no exception. Inspect the trunk seams where the fuel tank bolts in (the tank top actually comprises the main trunk floor) and the tank for rust. The quarter panel wheel lips are another area where rust quickly formed. Bubbling paint on the outside and body filler or fiberglass on the inside of the wheel lip indicate that you're looking at a car needing far more work than may be evident at first glance. Front and rear floor pans are highly susceptible to rust, a visual inspection from under the car offers a look at what you're in for, but only if the car is not undercoated. If undercoating is present, you're far better off trying to persuade the seller to remove the front seats and interior trim in order to look underneath the carpeting for rust holes. That same inspection will also yield a look at the firewall/cowl area, the lower half of which is yet another area highly susceptible to rust. On both coupe and 2+2 models water was prone to holding in the bottom corners of the rear windows, leading to deterioration of the seams and infiltration into the trunk or rear seating area. Under the hood, the fender tops overlap the engine compartment sheet metal and are another rust-prone area. Also inspect behind and under the battery, as there is often very little metal left because of battery acid splashing and corrosion.

The final and one of the more important inspections is where the front suspension components bolt to the shock towers. Since these year Mustangs were based on the Falcon's fully unitized body structure, the sheet metal of the shock tower absorbed much of the shock and vibration transmitted through the suspension, leading to stress cracks and elongation of the suspension mounting holes.